New York Stay and Princess Cruise: New York, Bermuda, and Caribbean (almost)…
Getting There…
To New York…
Flew from DFW into LaGuardia Airport on American Airlines and took a cab into Midtown to our hotel, the Thompson Central Park. What was surprising is that at the airport, the next cab in line was told to move and we were moved over to a cab that had just bypassed the whole line – and that cab didn’t have a working card reader but the fare was $85 cash from LaGuardia to our hotel in Midtown near Central Park (not stated upfront). Not quite sure what happened there – but it was very irregular.
New York, New York
The Thompson Central Park - Hotel in New York
We stayed one pre-night before the cruise in the Thompson Central Park Hotel (next to Carnegie Hall). Thompson at 7th Avenue and 56th Street and is considered to be a part of “Midtown”. This was a great hotel – very quiet considering all of the activity on the street below – and there as a little bit of a view. The King bed was very comfortable and the room was decorated like someone lived there. The shower was – amazing. Never had to select the floor before getting into the elevator before, but it worked – seemed to take less time to get the right car. Also, the upper floors are apparently penthouses, apartments, or condos in many buildings. Not sure if that was the case here – but that was a little surprising.
New York Subway
The front desk provided a map of the subway system to get “Downtown” toward the southern end of Manhattan. The subway was very convenient to reach the 9/11 memorial. Riding the subway from 57th street and 7th Avenue (which is “Midtown”) we got off at Courtland Street (This is “Downtown”), right by the 9/11 memorial and in front of St Paul’s Chapel (of Trinity Church). All those local to New York, from the Thompson Hotel front desk to others cruise passengers from New York, warned about getting on the subway past rush hour but never at night due to safety concerns – just don’t do it – and to stay in Manhattan on the R or W line. We could hop on the subway at 57th street and 7th Avenue (our hotel was between 56th and 57th Streets). The system ties a person to a debit or credit card used and apparently allows for a single one-time bill for the day (I’d have to check receipts to confirm this – but other locals confirmed that it “should” work). And then, we were on our way.
St Paul’s Chapel
We started by visiting St Paul's Chapel, which is famous today as the “little Chapel that stood” on 9/11 when a now famous sycamore tree shielded the church and historic graveyard from destruction. In the cleanup from 9/11, it became a stopping point for those working on the towers to recover in body and spirit. Some of the patches from various departments of different types of emergency services from around the country are displayed here - given by those serving to those praying for and serving those responders. A bell was donated by the City of London after 9/11 to symbolized their mutual support.
However, the Chapel’s original fame is from our founding as a nation. Congress met under the Constitution for the first time at Federal Hall on Wall Street (by the New York Stock Exchange), and there President George Washington took the oath of office and confirmed it with “So help me God” on the balcony and delivered his inaugural address to Congress in the Senate chamber inside. Following this, President Washington, Congress, and all senior officials, following the official schedule of events directed by Congress, which was in session, proceeded directly to St. Paul’s Chapel to pray, with selected readings from the Anglican Book of Common Prayer, omitting passages where the King of England had established himself as head of the Church and modified tenants of faith – traced to the roots of the condition of the Puritan’s movement to these shores.
This marked the peaceful transition from the Articles of Confederation to the Constitution, by the People exercising their rights under the Declaration of Independence to better protect the self-evident and unalienable Rights as the Declaration acknowledged. This service in the Chapel was to show the law was dependent on the Creator for authority and to show gratitude and a prayer for blessings. https://wallbuilders.com/resource/americas-religious-heritage-as-demonstrated-in-presidential-inaugurations/
9/11 Memorial
Visiting the two large pools is sobering with the new tower looming over it all. Engraved stones surround each pool with the names of those who lost their lives on that day, and one section covers those on Flight 93 and the Pentagon. What was surprising was the short distance from City Hall and the City Emergency services just across a block or two past St Paul’s Chapel, making the response faster – but those NYPD and NYFD first responders going up into the towers were close. It’s a period of reflection – and of appreciation for their resolve.
One World Tower - at the World Trade Center.
Dining by the Hotel
We returned on the subway to the hotel for the evening and ate dinner across the street in Antonio's Pizza for a New York pizza cooked in a coal-fired oven. In the morning, we started the day eating at Acadia, a wonderful Mediterranean restaurant on the corner of 57th Street and 6th Avenue. Great subdued decor - light and airy - with an amazing breakfast and terrific service.
Getting on Board our Ship in Brookland (Redhook Cruise Terminal)
Cab from the Hotel to the Cruise Ship
From there we took a cab down to the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal (what locals call the “Redhook” terminal for the neighborhood where the terminal is located). This was right by the Atlantic Basin, where a local ferry docks. Having the Princess Medallion shipped to your home before boarding saves a lot of time. There is a special line if you already have a Medallion and that saved about 20 minutes or more. It’s still the standard passenger screening, but the line is shorter. From there, we boarded our ship and as the sign says when leaving Brooklyn up the escalator to the ship, “Fuhgeddaboudit”.
The Island Princess
The Island Princess is the original “Love Boat”, which was made famous by the TV series of the same name but has been refurbished so that it seems both comfortable and modern. This is a mid-size ship, between smaller and huge vessels, so it feels more comfortable, and we seemed to encounter the same couples more often than on other similar sized ships, which was more a matter of shared interests than the ship size... You see the people who tend to share your interests (and dining times). All started as you might expect – to topside pool party with dancing, and one such a bright and clear day, plenty of photos of the city. We’ll cover more on the ship in a bit. Now, a weather update…
Welcome Aboard - Change of Itinerary
Hurricane Erin
We had been watching Hurricane Erin in the Caribbean make some unpredictable moves around the Northern Caribbean. Shortly after boarding, at the pool party to celebrate sailing, the announcement was made that we would not be able to safely sail to the Northern Caribbean to Turks and Cacaos, the Bahamas, or Puerto Rico - but were planning to sail to Bermuda. Some chose to sail on a later cruise while others debarked to their homes nearby and would return when we sailed.
While some were disappointed, we had an opportunity to stay in New York. Princess had made a sound decision based on experience and we fully supported and appreciated it. Itineraries can change based on some factors and weather is one of these. As the situation developed, conditions would be reviewed when the forecasts were updated.
Credits were issued by Princess with a Future Cruise Credit (FCC) of 50% of what each passenger paid to be applied for another cruise and cancelled shore excursions were automatically credited. Guests who stayed on board were also provided with a non-refundable $250 in onboard credit for this trip only.
Staying in New York
The Central Atrium and Eileen taking a spin on the wheel. We remained on the ship in the evenings, going into the city for the day and returning for dinner. We settled into this pattern while we remained docked in New York
New York - Times Square and tickets to a Broadway Show
Times Square
Now, since we were staying in New York for a few more days, the Princess crew created some shore excursions to get those who wanted to visit Times Square or take a free Ferry from right beside the dock over to the Wall Street Ferry. On our first day in port, we opted for a ride to Times Square and were dropped off by the Marriott on 42nd Street. Bright lights, huge advertisements, unmistakable.
Buying Show Tickets (by the Statue of Father Duffy)
On arriving, we walked with our new cruise passenger friends from Alabama over to the line to the right of the monument to Father Duffy to buy tickets to Broadway and off-Broadway shows. These shows are displayed on a tall red board with times listed for available shows. A few people were available to describe different shows and with some show flyers. The ticket booth is to the left of this board, and it seemed to take about an hour or so as the line built up waiting for ticket sales to open. As we waited in line, it started misting or drizzling on and off. Eileen held our spot in line while I walked across the street and bought an umbrella and a New York Yankee's poncho. (I did ask for a Brooklyn Dodgers one if it they had it - which got a big laugh).
A bite to eat at Carve before the Show
Since those we were with were all seeing the same show on Broadway, we all went to get something to eat together and with tickets in hand, headed to Carve, a diner recommended by locals for lunch. This was just down the street from the ticket booth. Sandwiches and Parfait were the order of the day and at a very reasonable price.
Broadway Play (The Golden Theater – Operation Mincemeat)
We saw "Operation Mincemeat" at the Golden Theater (On-Broadway), beside the Marriott. This play was hilarious and the singing and acting top-notch covering drama in one of the intelligence coups of WWII, where a man dressed as a British officer was handcuffed to a suitcase with false plans to divert enemy troops away from Sicily to Sardinia for the Allied invasion of Sicily. It worked and was a true story. While all the actors/actresses played multiple roles, one actor proved the power of acting near the end of the show by simply removing or putting on his glasses and it was if a completely different person were now standing in the same space. He did it again to prove the point - wow.
Now, it seems like this is the thing to do in New York as every single person asked if we had seen a play and then wanted to be clear if it was on-Broadway or off-Broadway – then our assessment if it was any good or worth seeing. Some others had different opinions (but had seen different plays), but when we told them what we’d seen, they echoed that they had loved it.
Bus Pickup to Return to the Ship
After the play, we returned to the pickup point our driver had noted, but the Marriott had asked them to move on from 42nd Street to not block their entrance, so they shifted to the other side of the Marriott on 41st Street. We had seen one of our buses as we exited the Golden Theater but figured we’d just missed it and that bus was on the way back and we’d have to catch the next one. No - that was the one. So, we essentially just walked around the block to get to the bus that was right there. Our new friends spotted the shift, and we caught the bus, which whisked us off to the ship just as the rain picked up. I (Mike) needed the exercise anyway.
Princess Shipboard for the Evening
Wall Street Ferry - Midtown 5th Avenue - Notable Buildings - Staten Island Ferry
Ferry to Wall Street Ferry Terminal (Redhook pickup at the end)
The next day, we took the ferry over to the Wall Street ferry pier with some other new friends from New Jersey who worked in NYC. They gave us the basics of the bus system, like the "M" being for Manhattan and escorted us up to Midtown at 57th St and 5th Avenue and we parted ways as they continued to their destination. I’m not entirely sure they expected us to be seen again, but off we went.
Midtown 5th Avenue (Trump Tower, Churches, St Patrick’s Cathedral)
We stopped at the Trump Tower - what we later found was one of many such buildings carrying the Trump name in NYC and had lunch at a great price compared to what we had been seeing. It was a reminder that New York has provided many Presidents to the US and although not born there, our first President, George Washington led the Country from New York City.
Then we walked south, past the 5th Avenue Presbyterian Church, then the St. Thomas Church (Episcopal), where we stopped and listened to a great sermon over on the side.
We continued to St. Patrick's Cathedral. From our other blogs, we have seen some of the great churches of Europe and St. Patrick’s Cathedral fits right in with style, but the lighting is much brighter – so some of the details are much clearer and in contrast – but each Cathedral, Basilica, and Church is beautiful and unique in its own way.
There was an exhibit at St Patrick’s that day to highlight one of the problems, drug addiction, that have taken so many lives earlier than expected and among family members of those victims, were tourists viewing the stained glass, the statues, and the sweeping arches. It was surreal and a reminder of change to see the contrast of the elevating surroundings, the pain, surrender, and the comfort all at once in groups of tourists, visitors, and parishioners sharing this space for a time.
Rockefeller Center, Subway to the South Ferry Terminal
From there we went looking and found the Top of the Rock and Radio City Music Hall, stopping for coffees and a chocolate pastry at Gregory’s. We also checked Rockefeller Center, where the ice rink is for the winter before taking the subway at 49th.
Being a little more familiar with how the subway worked on the R &W lines from our pre-night. But here, there was no Transit system agent – it was also where we found that not every exit has accessible access to the street level – and most stations have exits on the 4 corners of the street – if you’re on the wrong one, you’re just going to have to re-orient and use the surface crosswalks. At this time of day, it was very sparse. We went from 49th Street down the R line to the Whitehall Street to the South Ferry stop. Just kept walking East toward the water and eventually the signs guided us to the Staten Island Ferry.
South Ferry Terminal – Staten Island Ferry
The Ferry to Staten Island was free, and we waited with everyone to jump on the ferry and pick our spot. The sun had returned, so we got some good pictures cruising past the Statue of Liberty – given the digital zoom limitations of our cell cameras. The ferry was crowded, and most of the passengers seemed to be there for the ride past the Statue of Liberty rather than commuting.
When we exited the ferry, we found a monument to the WWII Coast Guard just to the right. Considering how many ships and material left NY Harbor for Europe in WWII and the activity of submarines, the important and costly sacrifice of the Coast Guard – and Merchant Marine – can’t be overstated in our success. It’s just a reminder of how important NY has been in US history even with all the other history made here.
Return to South Ferry Terminal (with nearly everyone else)
After arriving on Staten Island - we rushed over to get on the ferry returning to the South Ferry Terminal in Manhattan. The Transit officials had a great time with it – getting everyone to hustle because the next ferry was about to leave – had to smile at it. “Run!”
Wall Street, Trinity Church, Federal Hall, New York Stock Exchange, Trinity Church
After a walk up toward Wall Street we could see Trinity Church and as we approached, we could see the front of the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE) on Broad Street. This was surprising, because you hear about the Stock Exchange being on Wall Street – but that side is not the iconic photo with columns that ends up in pictures – that’s the Broad Street view.
It’s hard to imagine Trinity Church visible further west on Wall Street being the tallest building in the city for a time, as it’s dwarfed by skyscrapers today. It still looms large in history.
Federal Hall, where the Congress met after the Constitution was ratified and the Electoral Votes for George Washington’s election, and was administered the oath of office that sits over on the other side of Wall Street from the NYSE and between them at the end of Wall Street is Trinity Church.
Ferry back to the Ship
As we were now getting closer to our seating time for dinner, we headed to the Wall Street Ferry Terminal down the hill. After waiting for a short time, we found we were mixed in with commuters using ferries to other location and our stop was a special being run at the end of the pier to the Redhook Ferry stop in the Atlantic Basin – directly next to where our ship at dock 12. One thing – these ferries move quickly – it seems you might be able to waterski off one – certainly off the Fast Ferry we saw churning up that water.
We did not opt for the Tenement Museum, while others did and expressed their appreciation for the presentation of the conditions and personal histories presented.
Princess Shipboard for the Evening
Our time in New York was now coming to an end. With the delay from Hurricane Erin, we could not reach ports in the Northern Caribbean – so Turks and Cacaos and Puerto Rico were going to have to wait for a later trip – but we were now sailing out of NY Harbor at 8AM the next day… for an extra Day in Bermuda.
Leaving New York Harbor
The Island Princess - the "Love Boat"
Our Cabin
Eileen picked a cabin toward the aft (rear) by the elevators and stairs and it was perfect. The cabin was an upgrade to Two decks down where the exercise area or directly to the theater in the bow. One or two decks down and we could walk though through the ship from Stern to Bow.
Ship Experiences
We took advantage of the dance lessons and found the teaching method created and taught by the Cruise Director, Jason, to be quite simple and effective. Some dances we caught on sea days were the Merengue and the Bachata, but we missed the Tango and Rumba. We could have used more time with similar music after the instruction just to reinforce that learning.
Athletics and Contests
The well-equipped gym was two floors down, with weights, machines, treadmills, and a convenient filtered water dispenser to refill your workout bottle. Being on a lower deck, there was a lot less motion in the gym that would be felt a little more strongly on larger ships with the gym near the top deck forward.
Other amenities included a large spa and solarium and a pool, more forward with movie screen and musical events periodically.
There were various games lined up by the crew and one of these was an indoor putting contest. We also tried the shuffleboard up top and there is a basketball court for those so inclined.
Bible Study
In the mornings at sea, there were opportunities to participate in Bible Study. We were blessed to meet two new friends from Alabama who brought a bag full of Bibles and copies of words for four great songs for everyone. They had been going through Philippians and so we picked up there, and on Sunday, lacking a pastor, and with many coming for the first time wanting more of a service than a study, Mike had prepared just in case to lead the service on chapter 3 – very humbling and grateful.
Dining
Let’s just say we did not have the standard dining experience. As Mike started telling the wait staff about his list of allergies – the wait staff called over their manager, and the head of the wait staff, Magdelana, came over and asked if we’d like to stay at that one table for the rest of the cruise so she could make sure there were not any challenges. Each day, Magdelana would pull up her ‘laptop’ – a writing pad - and take my order separately. As fitting a Texan, pretty much anything from a cow - beef, milk, and cheese - are Mike’s menu – and so it was. Eileen had a great server as well – very professional yet friendly and we were both very happy with our service and the food in the main dining area 7PM seating in the “Bordeaux” dining room, table 120. This time we did not go overboard with photos, but the entrees from Lamb, Fillet Mignon, and a variety of salads were as great as the desserts. Usually, we would go to the buffet on a cruise, but the food and service were terrific in the main dining room, and we returned night after night. The “laptop” was still funny each day.
One thing – I (Mike) thought the coffee in the buffet area was great. Not being a connoisseur of coffee take my opinion for what it’s worth, but I’ve tried a few and like more of a light roast without much bitterness and adding enough cream to make butter – so there was a faint trace of coffee in the cup. But there was plenty of cream – which is usually in limited supply elsewhere.
Between the buffet for breakfast and lunch, and pizza and ice cream snack counters out by the pools, and a grill, we did not go hungry. Breakfast at the buffet was perfect and trying to stay on a higher protein diet, it had what I needed. But the ice cream snack bar was playing my song.
Two specialty restaurants, the Crown Grill and Sabatini’s, Italian dining, were available to those looking for different culinary experiences and more intimate settings.
New York to Bermuda - Two days at sea
Sailing to Bermuda on calm seas - once again grateful for the decision to stay in New York and not take a risk on Hurricane Erin.
Bermuda
Arriving in Bermuda
As we pulled into Bermuda, two cruise ships docked, but one was departing as we arrived and that ship was departing the berth. As our ship maneuvered in the shallows near the dock, sand from the bottom swirled around in the water – increasing the range of colors and highlighting how that turquoise waters appear with the sands under the water.
We arrived next to the Marina where various charters, water taxis, and catamaran cruises regularly depart. This is a short distance from the Royal Navy Dockyards and the shops. There are some high-end shops for pottery and jewelry and various levels of clothing (and hats) depending on your tastes – but more formal attire, Hamilton, as the capital, is your best bet.
Driving and Traffic Warning
One warning here – this is the UK, so they drive on the wrong side of the road (if you’re American – or from pretty much anywhere else). So, if you’re crossing the street, stop – wait - look twice and pay attention to which lane the driver is in. (Please)
Sunset Catamaran Cruise
There was little time given our arrival time to remain in the port for shopping for now, and we had to get ready for the catamaran trip. So, we boarded and changed to take a quick sunset catamaran tour around the Dockyard area to catch the view near some picturesque, wooded rocks silhouetted by the setting sun. While drinks are included – we opted for waters and other had stronger liquids as we cruised past the docked Cruise ships and out toward a spot to see the setting sun.
On the return, the crew even put up some sail rather than just the engine as we had been going against the wind. As we returned, the lighting from the boat, the dockyards, and the ships, made for some great memories.
Night Aboard the Ship
Next Morning
Mini-bus tour of the Island.
The tour does cover some of the high points of the island, but also some history – and Bermuda has a rich history that ties into US history – after all we both started out as British possessions – and then we parted ways. We had originally chosen one tour but were interested in the other tour as well – we did back-to-back tours on different mini-buses, and each driver added different flavor and stories the other did not. So key point - you might not hear everything on the first visit.
It is no exaggeration to call Bermuda a series of islands joined by bridges with churches among homes on the middle ground with resorts to demarcate the land from the sea and forts on high ground. Offshore there are coral reefs everywhere and these contributed to a great number of wrecks – many accidental – but as land-based pirates will do, some were ships lured in with lights in the wrong places for safe navigation so pirates could row out and loot (I mean salvage) the cargo. Much of the higher ground on the island have forts or observation or navigational aids - such as a lighthouse or two. (notice the white roofs on every house)
Bermuda Government
Bermuda is under a Royal Governor from the UK, not a President. Even though it is a part of the UK, immigration is extremely restricted, requiring being descended from a citizen of the island or marrying a citizen. A limited number of skilled professionals are permitted to immigrate as well and as a guide indicated are usually medical professionals. Wealth does not buy citizenship or residency, and Bermuda famously publicizes their rejection of those who act as if their wealth buys them access.
Bermuda Churches
Bermuda has the highest ratio of churches per capita, and these are quite evident all around the island – in walking distance in essence from anywhere. Many of these have above-ground crypts for families, many of which go back more than 300 years or more for original settlers. Some examples are seen here. Once you come, you stay, and so does your family.
In Hamilton, the National Art Gallery can be found on Church Street, and just beyond it past the main island bus terminal is the Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, a magnificent stone structure in regular use. One thing to note is that this is not that far from the waterfront, but you do have to move with a purpose if you’re viewing the interior and trying to get back to the tour.
Bermuda Business
While tourism is a major part of the economy, it is the insurance industry that dominates the Bermudan economy and that is centered in Hamilton. However, in smaller businesses, it did not take long for Bermuda to ban franchise businesses from the island – there is a KFC in Hamilton, and it is the ONLY chain restaurant because it was grandfathered in under the law and allowed to operate after the ban. If you don’t see familiar restaurant names, or a Scoops, Mr. Chicken, etc... that is the reason and now you know it.
View of the harbor in Hamilton. For a longer time to explore Hamilton, consider finding an alternative ride (bus or ferry from Hamilton to the Royal Navy Dockyard).
Bermuda Homes
One interesting point about living on the island is that there is no central water supply. All the roofs on the island are coated with lime to decontaminate rainwater – which is stored in an underground cistern on the same property. There are no exceptions to this, and even public buildings collect water. When the rain comes, the cistern on the property gets filled but drains in the dry season and resupply is expensive. But when a hurricane knocks out power – it doesn’t have the same impact. Still, it’s very different from other places that don’t collect rainwater and need reservoirs or some other storage or freshwater source.
Another interesting note about these homes. Houses often have brilliant colors or faded colors rather than white. Limestone is prevalent on the island, so it is used for building, but limestone will allow water to soak through, so they coat the exterior with hardened clay (for pigmented waterproof seal), but the sun bakes out the color over time. A deeper pigment indicates a newer coat. These colors are also used in churches, but some are also finished in all white.
Bermuda Beaches and Golf
Golfing is a very popular way to spend a vacation in Bermuda if you are staying longer or just for the day. , With Golf Courses – such as the Pro Tour and world-renowned Port Royal or Tucker's Point courses, or the many the golf resorts - it is a major draw.
At several points, we stopped for photos of beaches where you could spend the day, such as Half Moon Bay, or a pink sand beach. Bermuda's beaches are also a major attraction on the warm sands.
Return to the Ship for the Night
Entryway to the Royal Naval Dockyards grounds.
Last Day in Bermuda
Different Mini-bus Tour
The next day we went ashore for a different Mini-bus Tour of the Island – with many forts and more history of the island. During both tours, some aspects of the history of Bermuda were shared and is is aggregated for clarity. So some may appear on day 1 that is additional detail from this day.
St George’s
This town on the Northeast side of the island was the first settlement on the island and here are a number of forts and churches and is centered around the ocean and ferry terminal. The walking portion of this St Georges started at the Marina and a park contains a statue to Sir George Somers and a canon. To be fair, there are canons everywhere on Bermuda.
Historic St Peter’s Church was established in St George’s in 1612, and is the oldest Protestant Church in continuous use in this hemisphere. As it was a little warm, we walked down and had some ice cream at yo Cherry, and then returned to continue the tour.
Also in St George’s is an unfinished Church, and Fort Victoria, where the great gunpowder plot that resupplied colonial forces from British Naval gunpowder stores took place. Following around the coast you pass Fort St Catherine and The St Regis Bermuda Resort, before passing again through St George’s.
National Aquarium and Zoo
Our next stop was the aquarium and zoo. Yes – there are other options for seeing what’s living under the water – but we were not prepared for snorkeling or diving. From a shark, rays, some glittering fish and outside a tank for seals – yes – seals, (my favorite was the barracuda because I can’t recall ever seeing one before - but Eileen has seen them in the water).
From there, we walked across to the adjoining zoo. Flamingos, Galapagos Tortoises. Parrots, and Alligators and a few other exhibits completed this stop, with a short lecture not that far down the road from our driver and guide. We stayed up on the porch out of the sun and talked with one of the locals.
Shipwrecks
Shipwrecks were both a risk and windfall from the many reefs. After one such wreck, the Sea Venture, Bermuda became the rescuer of the colony at Jamestown, Virginia. Those marooned had to build two vessels (very small vessels) from the wreckage and native trees and arrived in time with supplies from the hogs and plants on the island to save the Jamestown colony from famine and destruction. On hearing of the pleasant conditions on the island and lack of any inhabitants, England decided to construct a colony there.
Royal Navy Dockyard Museum and Self-Guided Tour.
Museum - Early Island History
The tour returned and we stopped before re-boarding the ship to take a tour of the Royal Naval Dockyard. There is a separate admission fee. We visited the museum, and it covered the early inhabitation of the island – unlike other settlements, there were no inhabitants at the time the first British ships arrived. But given its strategic location, England found the spot irresistible, many touting the plentiful food on the island after timidly approaching from the very loud screeching of millions of birds and believing the island to be cursed or worse.
Their curiosity satisfied that the island was safe, farming grew up as an industry, but it was the Royal Navy that built the islands – yes – there are a lot of islands that make up Bermuda and just from maps, it seems the Royal Navy determined to put a fort nearly everywhere one would fit with a decent line of sight to ship approaches or any place enemy forces might land. The many reefs around the island had made it a cottage industry to try to get crews to wreck and loot the cargos.
The Royal Naval Dockyards Grounds
On the grounds are pools fed by the ocean and a dolphin show is part of the attraction – where for some extra mount, there is a close encounter. We instead opted for a walk up the hill to see some of the fortifications and the large building at the top. As these are largely coastal artillery forts, there is a display and history of the Bermudan defense forces being called into service by the British during WWI in particular for their artillery skills. But there were other types of service.
One curiosity was a “jail” where the prisoners essentially lived at the bottom of a grotto in the center of the camp – there was water, but no roof except some overhanging rocks and from the remainder of the trip, those white rooftops were not there – so the water may or may not have been disinfected in the jail – if there was rain recently.
Apart from the defensive walls, barracks, storehouses and command headquarters, there are numerous examples of the cannons and artillery guarding the island from its founding. As noted elsewhere, Bermuda is an island of forts with overlapping defensive coverage from many positions. Combined with the reefs channeling anyone attempting to come ashore into very small approaches, no one has attempted to take Bermuda.
A (very) Brief Early Military History - the US and UK
Bermuda was the source of gunpowder that saved the US War of Independence at a critical point. The story gets a little wild from there – in that the Americans traded food for the locals to grab gunpowder out of the British magazines and row it out to waiting ships. We were fairly resourceful it seems. There remains a monument to the location of that place where the pilfered gunpowder was stored near the town of St. George at Fort Victoria.
But just as the island provided safety to America, Bermuda became the assembly point for the fleet of British warships that launched attacks on the US in the War of 1812 – including Fort McHenry where the National Anthem was written – by the rockets’ red glare… for the troops that burned the White House, and for those that attacked New Orleans. The War ended – well – it technically ended even before the Battle of New Orleans, and then we returned to peace.
Eventually, the US and England became allies and Bermuda’s strategic location made it important to US defense well into the Cold War and the US Navy built up the ground and runways for patrolling the waters around the island. The current LF Wade Airport essentially covers the decommissioned US Navy airfield constructed out of separate islands.
Crystal Caves
Our 2nd mini-bus tour also included a trip to the
Crystal Caves. Often you think of caves as cold places – cooler than the air above. This was shocking, but the cave was considerably warmer than the air temperature outside, or maybe I just didn’t like being underground and my heart rate warmed me up (Mike). Either way – others noted the same effect. Two boys playing cricket had discovered the cave on someone else’s property searching for a lost ball. Eventually, a boat was put in the cave and visitors had to climb down a rope onto the boat to see the cave. A floating pontoon bridge allows visitors to walk from one end to the other (where a human fits anyway), and lights were added – giving better pictures and to show how deep the water in the cave can be. If something goes in the water, it stays in the water.
Two boys playing cricket had discovered the cave on someone else’s property searching for a lost ball. Eventually, a boat was put in the cave and visitors had to climb down a rope onto the boat to see the cave. A floating pontoon bridge allows visitors to walk from one end to the other (where a human fits anyway), and lights were added – giving better pictures and to show how deep the water in the cave can be. If something goes in the water, it stays in the water.
Return to the Ship for Departure
View of the Island Princess docked at King's Wharf from the top of the Royal Naval Dockyards command headquarters.
Bermuda to New York - Two days at sea
Ship Experiences (Shows)
The shows were heavy on music and there was a show where the talented singers and dancers really hit the mark - the show "Encore" and "On the Bayou" were audience hits.
Other performances also entertained in the evening. Piano player and vocal entertainer Kory Simon wowed the crowd that gathered to hear him play in the main atrium and was universally appreciated with great audience engagement. Other entertainers and groups shared this space at different times and in the evening, there were several places to catch some entertainment. Entertainers and musicians Chris Lash and Dan Middleditch brought high energy performances to the theater. Even in Karaoke there were several talented passengers who provided very high-level vocal talent and the sing-off before returning stunned the crowd in the Explorer Lounge with some noting “It was a real show”.
An amazing piano player, Kory Simon, had an accident onshore and had to stay in Bermuda. Everyone was singing his praises prior to this and singing along to his playing in the central hall amidship. Pray for Kory. It's a reminder that even on vacation, travel insurance might be needed for medical care and evacuation back home. Ask about this as benefits may vary and the cost of getting home can be very high.
Morning arrival in New York Harbor
As we passed under the bridge at the harbor entrance, we were preparing. Bags were already set to go off before up (picked up the night before – as is usual). But as we had a later flight, our departure was much later so we waited in the Explorer Lounge after breakfast.
Transfer to LaGuardia Airport (bus)
Really happy someone else was doing the driving here – I’d never seen so many yellow/orange taxis in one place – it seemed like two decks of cabs, 4-6 lanes wide for more than a half-mile total. Somehow after circling twice, the bus driver found a spot to let us out all the while getting pressured to leave right then – we helped with luggage, and it all went quickly – then we settled in for the long layover for our return home.
